I've tried several of these CD Repair Machines through the years -- all the cheaper ones, of course. Hand crank models. Small electric models. All with lingering issues and, mostly, tedious to use and not with completely satisfactory results. This is the best unit I've ever used and it's because of the powerful motor and self-contained design.
I will not go into all the esoteric accolades and complaints that everyone else has already posted. I will simply say if you are an old-timer with 700+ CDs in your collection (I started buying CDs before I owned a player -- and that was the year they were introduced!), and if you are shocked by the condition they are in as you attempt to convert them to MP3 or other digital transportable formats -- then know this: a) Those CDs are completely recoverable if the "damage" is only on the silver side; and b) this is the repair machine you definitely want when you have a lot of CDs to recover! A $35 or $50 hand-crank unit is not going to do it for you. At least, not satisfactorily.
If you are just starting out to convert your CDs to MP3s, you will find -- as I did -- that the conversion process is far more sensitive to scratched surfaces than the music players are, themselves. A CD that might seem to play "just fine" will not allow itself to be copied as easily. If your recording program is reporting lots of errors, or rebuffering repeatedly, or rescanning 3 and 4 times -- it's time to bring in a unit like this to save those CDs. If you only have a few in such a condition, then buying a new CD or the MP3 or iTunes version may be a better choice.
Here are some Tips and Observations for use once you've bought this...
a) I do not know why they call the first polish you use "Solution #2" and the second one you use "Solution #1" -- but they do. Solution 2 is a little thicker than Solution 1, so be aware before you squirt Solution 1 all over the place.
b) Does this unit get a little messy? Yes. But not terribly so. And it's all contained within the unit so long as you are not crazy enough to open the lid while it's spinning the buffing pad and CD! 8-) But my Tip about using a Credit Card helps with this. Note: There is no avoiding getting your fingers messy as you remove the Buffing Pads from the machine and replace them with the next one. So get over it!
c) The instructions for spreading the polish across the face of the buffing pad "with the tip of the bottle" are somewhat useless. The tip of the bottle is really not the correct shape to do this well. Squirt a few dollops of paste here and there on the pad, then use a Credit Card to spread the polish evenly. It gets easier as the pad gets used more. A dry pad absorbs more polish -- a used pad absorbs less. You do not need to cover the entire inner part of the pad up to the small hole because the retainer cap that locks the CD in place will cover about 1-1/8-in diameter from the center out. You do want to concentrate more on an even coating out to the very outside edges of each pad, however. Yes, this takes longer, but the results are vastly superior.
d) Once you run your CD through Solution 2, I do recommend you heed the mfr's advice and proceed with using Solution 1 for the best results. That is a light aqua color and should be applied to the second buffing pad. You will notice that this polish is the one that gets flung about more because of its viscosity.
e) After you are finished with Solution 1, remove the CD, and its locking cap. Then peel the Buffing Pad away from its turntable inside the unit. You'll notice a line of paste that has been flung against the inner walls of the machine. Carefully scrape off that goop with your Credit Card and reapply it to the Buffing Pad that has Solution 2 on it. This is all valuable paste and should not be discarded. NOTE: At first, I was reusing this paste on Buffing Pad 1, but that aqua polish is the finishing touch and needs to remain as pure as possible. Using the excess paste on the Buffing Pad with Solution 1 on it will degrade the final polishing. I switched to using it on the Buffing Pad with Solution 2 -- and although it discolors that white paste over time, it is a better choice. Mark the pads with a Sharpie if you start getting confused. Keep the Aqua Paste Solution 1 as pure as you can.
f) If you must resort to using the actual 3M Sanding Discs for deeply-scratched CDs, you may wish to discard the excess goop that you scrape off the inner walls. I have not had to resort to these discs so I cannot swear if their sanding surface creates a gritty residue. If so, you might wish to discard that goop. If you have kids and they abuse these discs, I can see that the Sanding Pads might be very useful.
g) While you have the Locking Cap off, and are preparing to insert the next CD, wipe off the bottom of that Cap so it can seat against the next CD properly. Don't let the goop fill up its threaded screw area, or under the Cap, itself.
I did not find it useful to count just how many CDs the first bottles of polish might recover because some CDs have deep scratches and need more polishing than others. So, your mileage may vary. I had a few that required 2 passes. And if you don't always use Solution 1, then it affects how much of that polish you use, as well. But I got quite a large stack resuscitated, so far. I have not actually finished either bottle as I write this, and have not refinished all 700+ CDs in my collection.
Also, the Wiping Cloths that come with the unit really should be replaced with Microfiber Towels. My method was to rinse my CDs in a sink and then pat them dry with Microfiber -- not a hand towel or paper towels (too coarse). Do not use paper of any kind -- not toilet paper or napkins. These are all too harsh and will scratch surfaces.
This system is NOT complicated. Everything about it -- except the motor housing, itself -- is built around commonly-available supplies. The Buffing Pads are similar to 3M "Perfect-It" pads @ 4-5/8-in Diameter. The Sanding Disks are 3M discs. Even the two polishing solutions are available by other mfrs. So don't feel trapped by JFJ. Their prices are probably as competitive as anyone's, however. The trick is, don't buy more solution than you'll need, as the polish (like most car waxes) may get gummy or watery over time. It will not store indefinitely.
If this item seems too costly for you, consider these points:
You can waste a lot of money buying tools that really are not suited for the job. And you probably have. If you own 10 CDs that need polishing, then buy the hand-crank model. If you have over 100, this unit will serve you better. You can always sell it, later, because these are quite popular and well-respected. If I were a shop selling used CDs, I'd set one of these up on the counter and offer to clean 2 or 3 free for each customer -- they'd buy it after seeing the results. Swirl marks are almost invisible. The mirror-effect is very nearly as good as a new CD.
| 商品尺寸 | 22.86 x 17.15 x 24.77 cm; 3.4 公斤 |
|---|---|
| 功能用途 | JFJ Disc Repair System 110/Volt |
| 制造商 | JFJ Disc Repair |
| 商品重量 | 3.4 kilograms |
