|商品尺寸||22.86 x 17.15 x 24.77 cm; 3.4 公斤|
|功能用途||JFJ Disc Repair System 110/Volt|
|制造商||JFJ Disc Repair|
JFJ Easy Pro 视频游戏，CD，DVD，蓝光修复机 110V
JFJ Easy Pro Video Game
- 30 天无条件退款。零件和 1 年。
- 适用于所有紧凑的光盘格式 - 音乐 CD、CD-Rom、DVD、Sony Playstation、Playstation 2、Playstation 3、Playstation 4、X-BOX、X-box 360、XBOX ONE、蓝光、Wii、GameCube(用品单独出售)、CD-R、DVD-R和HD DVD
- 重量轻、静音马达、的化合物使 CD 或 DVD 每次都焕然一新。无需水,您无需处理过滤器、水泵、水管或脏水。包括 JFJ Pro 圆盘维修机、防静电喷雾清洁器、JFJ Pro Solutions 1 & 2、砂磨垫、磨光垫。轻松专业维修每次修复在15至20美分之间。
- 30-day unconditional money back guarantee. 1-year warranty on parts and labor.
- NOTE: Check User Manual in English on Technical Specification before use
- Works on all compact disc formats-Music CD, CD-Rom, DVDs, Sony Playstation, Playstation 2, Playstation 3, Playstation 4, X-BOX, X-box 360, XBOX ONE, Blu-ray, Wii, GameCube (supplies sold separately), CD-R, DVD-R, and HD DVD
- Use a one step machine for skipping, finger print or light scratches or multi stage for deep gauges
- Light weight, silent motor, safe compounds make the CD or DVD look brand new every time
- No water, you do not have to deal with filter, water pump, water hose or dirty water
- Includes JFJ Pro Disc Repair Machine, Anti Static Spray Cleaner, JFJ Pro Solutions 1 & 2, Sanding Pads, Buffing Pads
- Easy pro maintenance is between 15 to 20 cents per repair
使用 JFJ Easy Pro Universal CD/DVD 修复机升级视频输出的质量和清晰度。 使用此*的光盘清洁器修复 CD 的跳跃问题，并去除光盘上的划痕。 这款盘子清洁器适用于单面和双面圆盘。 JFJ Easy Pro 支持小型光盘格式，如音乐光盘、CD-ROM、DVD、VCD、CDR、DVD-R、HD-DVD 和蓝光 DVD。 它还支持播放站 1、2、3 和 4 张光盘、Xbox 360 和 Xbox One 光盘、Nintendo Wii、Wii U 和 GameCube （单独出售）游戏光盘。 这款用户友好的 CD DVD 防刮器设计简单，易于操作。 如果您的光盘有轻微或重划痕，可以在不专业帮助的情况下使用 JFJ Easy Pro Universal CD/DVD 清洁器取出它们。 这款刮擦修复机是节省时间和金钱的*佳方式，使 CD 或 DVD 焕然一新。
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I will not go into all the esoteric accolades and complaints that everyone else has already posted. I will simply say if you are an old-timer with 700+ CDs in your collection (I started buying CDs before I owned a player -- and that was the year they were introduced!), and if you are shocked by the condition they are in as you attempt to convert them to MP3 or other digital transportable formats -- then know this: a) Those CDs are completely recoverable if the "damage" is only on the silver side; and b) this is the repair machine you definitely want when you have a lot of CDs to recover! A $35 or $50 hand-crank unit is not going to do it for you. At least, not satisfactorily.
If you are just starting out to convert your CDs to MP3s, you will find -- as I did -- that the conversion process is far more sensitive to scratched surfaces than the music players are, themselves. A CD that might seem to play "just fine" will not allow itself to be copied as easily. If your recording program is reporting lots of errors, or rebuffering repeatedly, or rescanning 3 and 4 times -- it's time to bring in a unit like this to save those CDs. If you only have a few in such a condition, then buying a new CD or the MP3 or iTunes version may be a better choice.
Here are some Tips and Observations for use once you've bought this...
a) I do not know why they call the first polish you use "Solution #2" and the second one you use "Solution #1" -- but they do. Solution 2 is a little thicker than Solution 1, so be aware before you squirt Solution 1 all over the place.
b) Does this unit get a little messy? Yes. But not terribly so. And it's all contained within the unit so long as you are not crazy enough to open the lid while it's spinning the buffing pad and CD! 8-) But my Tip about using a Credit Card helps with this. Note: There is no avoiding getting your fingers messy as you remove the Buffing Pads from the machine and replace them with the next one. So get over it!
c) The instructions for spreading the polish across the face of the buffing pad "with the tip of the bottle" are somewhat useless. The tip of the bottle is really not the correct shape to do this well. Squirt a few dollops of paste here and there on the pad, then use a Credit Card to spread the polish evenly. It gets easier as the pad gets used more. A dry pad absorbs more polish -- a used pad absorbs less. You do not need to cover the entire inner part of the pad up to the small hole because the retainer cap that locks the CD in place will cover about 1-1/8-in diameter from the center out. You do want to concentrate more on an even coating out to the very outside edges of each pad, however. Yes, this takes longer, but the results are vastly superior.
d) Once you run your CD through Solution 2, I do recommend you heed the mfr's advice and proceed with using Solution 1 for the best results. That is a light aqua color and should be applied to the second buffing pad. You will notice that this polish is the one that gets flung about more because of its viscosity.
e) After you are finished with Solution 1, remove the CD, and its locking cap. Then peel the Buffing Pad away from its turntable inside the unit. You'll notice a line of paste that has been flung against the inner walls of the machine. Carefully scrape off that goop with your Credit Card and reapply it to the Buffing Pad that has Solution 2 on it. This is all valuable paste and should not be discarded. NOTE: At first, I was reusing this paste on Buffing Pad 1, but that aqua polish is the finishing touch and needs to remain as pure as possible. Using the excess paste on the Buffing Pad with Solution 1 on it will degrade the final polishing. I switched to using it on the Buffing Pad with Solution 2 -- and although it discolors that white paste over time, it is a better choice. Mark the pads with a Sharpie if you start getting confused. Keep the Aqua Paste Solution 1 as pure as you can.
f) If you must resort to using the actual 3M Sanding Discs for deeply-scratched CDs, you may wish to discard the excess goop that you scrape off the inner walls. I have not had to resort to these discs so I cannot swear if their sanding surface creates a gritty residue. If so, you might wish to discard that goop. If you have kids and they abuse these discs, I can see that the Sanding Pads might be very useful.
g) While you have the Locking Cap off, and are preparing to insert the next CD, wipe off the bottom of that Cap so it can seat against the next CD properly. Don't let the goop fill up its threaded screw area, or under the Cap, itself.
I did not find it useful to count just how many CDs the first bottles of polish might recover because some CDs have deep scratches and need more polishing than others. So, your mileage may vary. I had a few that required 2 passes. And if you don't always use Solution 1, then it affects how much of that polish you use, as well. But I got quite a large stack resuscitated, so far. I have not actually finished either bottle as I write this, and have not refinished all 700+ CDs in my collection.
Also, the Wiping Cloths that come with the unit really should be replaced with Microfiber Towels. My method was to rinse my CDs in a sink and then pat them dry with Microfiber -- not a hand towel or paper towels (too coarse). Do not use paper of any kind -- not toilet paper or napkins. These are all too harsh and will scratch surfaces.
This system is NOT complicated. Everything about it -- except the motor housing, itself -- is built around commonly-available supplies. The Buffing Pads are similar to 3M "Perfect-It" pads @ 4-5/8-in Diameter. The Sanding Disks are 3M discs. Even the two polishing solutions are available by other mfrs. So don't feel trapped by JFJ. Their prices are probably as competitive as anyone's, however. The trick is, don't buy more solution than you'll need, as the polish (like most car waxes) may get gummy or watery over time. It will not store indefinitely.
If this item seems too costly for you, consider these points:
You can waste a lot of money buying tools that really are not suited for the job. And you probably have. If you own 10 CDs that need polishing, then buy the hand-crank model. If you have over 100, this unit will serve you better. You can always sell it, later, because these are quite popular and well-respected. If I were a shop selling used CDs, I'd set one of these up on the counter and offer to clean 2 or 3 free for each customer -- they'd buy it after seeing the results. Swirl marks are almost invisible. The mirror-effect is very nearly as good as a new CD.
I should also mention that I have at this time successfully repaired several hundred discs. I have not used ANY of the sandpaper pads, the #1 Blue polishing solution, or anything else supplied with this machine other than the #2 White solution and the foam buffing pads. That's because this combo will repair 99% of discs that are worth repairing. I frequent garage sales, thrift stores, and flea markets, looking primarily for music CDs to expand my collection. I dont't usually waste my time or money on discs that are so bad they would need to be sanded, though I can imagine if you were in IT for example and had a really destroyed data disc you needed to recover, it might warrant use of some other repair strategy, for me the White Solution + foam pads are all I ever need.
Choosing discs to repair: The data layer on an optical disc is near the "top" of the disc - that is, the label side, just beneath the label. That's how this machine works - there's a thick layer of polycarb on the non-label side which can be polished to remove scratches on it's surface without affecting the data on the disc. So most discs which don't have damage to the data layer can be fixed. Simply hold the disc up to a strong light. If you can see daylight through any of the shiny areas of the disc then the data is damaged and you will not be able to fix the disc 100% no matter how much polishing or sanding you do. As an aside, optical discs are read from the hub first and out towards the edge, so the first track on your CD, for example, will be located nearest to the center of the disc and so forth. This gives you some idea where to look for that scratch which is causing your disc to skip or your DVD to lock up.
This machine is simple to operate. There's no real need to "practice" as some reviewers maintain - unless you plan to use the more radical sanding options. Here's tip #1 from my record store friends: Get a spritzer bottle of water and moisten the foam pad before each use. Don't soak it, just get it damp and then apply the white solution. I apply the solution to the pad in a ring and then spread it out to the edges with my fingers. There is a 1-1/4" patch in center of the pad which doesn't need solution on it - this corresponds to the hub of the disc which doesn't get polished.
Next, attach your disc to the spindle on the lid. The clear, non-label side will face down when the lid is closed. Here is another very important piece of information that my friends warned me about. BE VERY CAREFUL SCREWING DOWN THE DISC! Make sure that the plastic screw, which is threaded somewhat imprecisely, doesn't get cross-threaded, so that the disc can wobble ever so slightly when it is being polished. This is the source of the cracked disc hubs that other reviewers have mentioned. So use both hands to press the disc down absolutely flat against the top surface, make sure it hasn't gotten hooked on the screw threads, and then carefully and gently screw on the nut that holds the disc in place. If it doesn't go on easily, back off and try again until it does. Once you've got it on right, tighten it down good and finger tight.
Now you're ready to polish the disc. Watch a movie or something. Put on some headphones because this machine is pretty noisy. Keep a rag handy to wipe the compound off of your fingers if you're going to be doing a number of discs. Remove all the discs from their cases at the beginning, so you don't have to handle the cases with polish-covered fingers. Now, using the #2 polish and a foam pad as I do, there's no risk of over-polishing a disc. If you just want to remove finger-prints etc, a single two-minute run will be enough. Otherwise, I have found that giving all my scratched discs three two-minute runs for a total of six minutes of polishing works best. I don't add more compound between runs. Most discs that are not repaired after this time are not salvageable, but if your really really want that disc, you can try another six minute set on it. Note that this machine will get hot, especially if you are doing six minutes for each disc, so keep an eye on it and give it time to cool off every now and then. If the nut has gotten too hot and you can't loosen it to remove the CD, I have found that a spritz of cool water will usually loosen it.
After polishing, it is safe to stack the repaired CDs on top of one another, and even to put them aside for later washing. The compound will not "harden" on the discs. To remove the compound, I take a batch at a time into the bathroom spread them out on the counter label side down, then I put a drop of dishwashing liquid (non greasy, like Dawn) on each disc. I run some very warm water and using my fingers I wash and rinse the discs and then stick them inside the folds of a cotton bath towel to dry. Here's another tip from me: Make sure you get all the compound off the disc, especially in the central hub are, which often has a groove around it in which the compound can remain. If you don't get all the compound off, it will smear around your disc when you give it the final touch up. For me, the touch up is nothing fancy. Like I said, I don't use any of the other equipment or sprays you are provided with this kit. I just dry the discs off and look for scratches. There are some advanced scratch removal techniques you can employ at this time which involve spit, your fingertips, and a white cotton T-shirt, but these are not part of my official recommendations. :)
Here are a couple more non-official non-recommendations which are sure to void your warranty, so try at your own risk:
Meguiar's Ultimate Compound (Car polish) is almost, but not quite as good a JFJ Compound #2, and quite a bit cheaper. It works!
After you've polished a number of discs, you will see a lot of gunk inside the machine which is made up of used compound, tiny worn fragments of foam pad, and presumably, tiny bits of poly carbon. This can be scooped off and re-used as buffing compound as long as you're using a spritzer bottle to keep everything moist. Just smear it all back on the pad. (Update: I wouldn't do this if you have used the sandpaper on any discs!)
BTW I have repaired several hundred discs at least, and have only used the original two foam pads that came with the system. Neither of them has completely worn out, so I think you can expect to get a couple hundred uses at least (remember I do SIX MINUTES! per disk) out of these pads - IF YOU KEEP THEM MOIST.
In summation, this is a great product, works exactly as described, and has been a boon to my CD collection, enabling me to scoop up and refurbish many rare used discs that others simply pass by. Like many such tools (like ink-jet printers for example) they really nail you on the supplies, however. I hope my tips will prove useful and help others to mitigate this at least a little.